Perhaps the most interesting thing is that Roman wine wasn’t ‘red’ or ‘white’, as we commonly group it today. Instead, it had a striking orange color. “Winemaking in qvevri and dolia ...

For fans, that is all part of the excitement. At Kings County Wines, a curated wine shop in Brooklyn, a sign with a color key indicates which wines are certified organic, sustainable, biodynamic ...

The color is deceivingly light ... yet it is the vaunted grape that goes into the barolos and barbarescos, inarguably the most heralded wines in Piedmont. It’s relative scarcity is due in ...