The Thai dish of seafood and glass-noodle salad can be as extravagant or simple as you like. At its most basic, the seafood is limited to dried shrimp, while this version has fresh shrimp and ...

which she describes as a spot that's “not overly fancy but has all the basic fare you'd expect”—including curry, stir-fry, noodle soup, salad (or “yum” in Thai), and Isan stalls.

That’s the night this recipe for Panang Curry Pumpkin Noodle Soup — sweet, salty, sour and spicy — was born. But was it good enough to print? Would a Thai cook scoff at this combination?